Ultimate Guide to Arcade Stick Parts UK (Joystick, Buttons, PCB & More)
ArcadeStickLabs
21 January 2026
Ultimate Guide to Arcade Stick Parts UK (Joystick, Buttons, PCB & More)
If you’re building, repairing, or upgrading a fightstick, choosing the right arcade stick parts in the UK can feel overwhelming. Between Sanwa, Crown, Seimitsu, levers, buttons, PCBs, and cases, it’s easy to get lost.
This guide simplifies everything so you can buy compatible parts with confidence.
In this guide you’ll learn
- What each part actually does
- Which brands are best for beginners vs. competitive players
- What to upgrade first (for the biggest feel improvement)
- How to avoid buying incompatible parts
- Where to buy reliable arcade stick parts in the UK
What are “arcade stick parts”?
A typical fightstick is made up of six core components:
- Joystick (lever) – controls movement
- Buttons – attack inputs
- Top (ball/bat/bullet) – what your hand grips
- PCB / encoder – makes the stick work on console/PC
- Wiring (harness) – connects everything
- Case / enclosure – the body of the stick
You can replace or upgrade all of these — that’s what makes arcade sticks so popular.
1) Joysticks (Levers) — the heart of your stick
This is the most important choice you’ll make because it changes how movement feels.
🕹️ 🇯🇵 Japanese levers (best for most beginners)
Sanwa JLF / JLX (most popular worldwide)
Best for: Street Fighter, Guilty Gear, 2D fighters
Why people love it:
- Light, smooth movement
- Easy for quarter circles and charge inputs
- Widely supported in almost every case
- Tons of replacement parts available in the UK
Who should buy it?
If you don’t know what you want yet — pick this.
Seimitsu LS-32 / LS-56 — crisp & precise
Best for: players who want more snappiness and precision
- Slightly stiffer than Sanwa
- Very responsive, with a distinct click feeling
- Great for faster 2D games and precision movement
If you like a joystick that feels sharper than Sanwa but still classic Japanese style, the Seimitsu LS-32/56 is an excellent choice.
🕹️ 🇰🇷 Korean levers (best for Tekken players)
Crown 309MJ / Knee Lever
Best for: Tekken and 3D fighters
Why people love it:
- Stronger return to centre
- More “snappy” movement
- Better for wavedashing/KBD movements
- More tactile feel
Downside:
- Slightly harder to install in some cases
- Feels very different from Japanese levers
If you main Tekken, this is often considered an endgame lever.
Sanjuks V7 — modern Korean performance
Best for: players who want a premium Korean feel
- Smoother than older Korean levers
- Great balance of tactile feel + precision
- Increasingly popular for Tekken/3D performance builds
The Sanjuks V7 gives you that Korean style snap with a refined feel — a great upgrade if you’re ready to step beyond the basics.
2) Buttons — the biggest feel upgrade (and the cheapest)
Upgrading buttons is usually the fastest way to transform how your stick feels.
🔘 Sanwa OBSF-30 / 24mm (the gold standard)
Best for:
- Speed
- Consistency
- Competitive play
These are the most common tournament buttons worldwide.
🔘 Crown 202 / 203 buttons
Best for:
- Heavier press
- More tactile feel
- Players who like firm buttons
Crown buttons have a slightly firmer feel than Sanwa, which some players feel gives better “feedback” on presses. They’re known for durability and a satisfying click.
🔘 Qanba Gravity KS — balanced and modern
Best for:
- Players who want a middle-ground between super light and super firm
- Casual and competitive play
Why players choose these:
- A smooth, consistent press
- Less spring force than some Crown buttons
- Great feel without being too light or too stiff
- Excellent reliability
They’re a strong choice if you want versatile performance without committing to one extreme.
🔘 Seimitsu PS-14-GN — snappy, tactile Japanese buttons
Best for:
- Players who like a crisper feel than Sanwa
- 2D and speed-focused players
Why players choose these:
- A more immediate snap on press
- Slightly firmer feel than Sanwa
- Great precision for tight combos
Many players use Seimitsu when they want a button that feels more intentional — especially in faster 2D games.
What size buttons do you need?
Button sizes — what you need to know
- 30mm — the standard size for face buttons (X/Y/B/A / Square/Triangle/Circle/Cross)
- 24mm — commonly used for Start/Select/Home or extra function buttons
Always confirm what your stick supports before buying.
3) Tops — change the feel instantly
You don’t need a new lever to change how your stick feels — swapping the top can be enough.
Ball top (standard)
Best for:
- Beginners
- Precision play
Bat top
Best for:
- Tekken players
- Strong directional control
Bullet top
Best for:
- Smaller hands
- Faster wrist movement
These are cheap upgrades that can make a big difference.
4) PCBs & encoders — what makes your stick work
If you’re building a custom stick, you’ll need a PCB/encoder for console/PC compatibility.
Brook PCB Universal Fighting Board (best in class)
Works on PS5, PS4, PC, Switch, Xbox (varies by model)
- Very reliable
- Low input lag
- Used in many high-end custom sticks
If you want plug-and-play compatibility, Brook is the safest bet.
Raspberry Pi Pico (budget DIY option)
Great if you:
- Like DIY projects
- Want a cheap custom build
- Don’t need official console compatibility
Works great on PC but can be trickier for consoles.
5) Wiring — don’t overlook this
Most beginners forget wiring, then get stuck mid-build.
You’ll usually need:
- A button harness
- A joystick 5-pin cable (for Sanwa levers)
- A ground daisy chain for buttons
If you buy a full kit from a UK supplier, wiring is often included.
6) Cases (enclosures) — where everything lives
You have three main options:
Prebuilt case (easiest)
Examples:
- Mayflash F500 case
- Hori Alpha shell
- 3D printed cases
Good if you want to mod without cutting metal.
Custom metal case
Best for:
- Serious builds
- Tournament players
- Aesthetic designs
These are heavier, sturdier, and feel premium.
What should you upgrade first?
If you already own a fightstick, follow this order:
Step 1 — Buttons
Swap stock buttons for premium options (Sanwa, Crown, Qanba, etc.).
Step 2 — Joystick (lever)
Upgrade to:
- Sanwa JLF/JLX (general use)
- Seimitsu LS-32/56 (tighter feel than Sanwa)
- Crown 309 / Knee Lever (Tekken focus)
Step 3 — Top
Experiment with ball vs bat.
Step 4 — PCB (optional)
Only if you need better console support.
Compatibility checklist (avoid expensive mistakes)
Before you buy anything, check:
- Does your case support the lever you want?
- Are your buttons 30mm or 24mm?
- Does your PCB support your console?
- Do you need a 5-pin cable?
- Does your lever need mounting plate support?
If in doubt, buy from a UK specialist who clearly labels compatibility.
Where to buy arcade stick parts in the UK
Look for suppliers that offer:
- UK stock (faster shipping)
- Clear compatibility info
- Beginner bundles
- Replacement parts
- Support for modders
At ArcadeStickLabs we focus specifically on this:
- Curated beginner kits
- Genuine Sanwa & Crown parts
- UK shipping
- Educational resources for new modders
This makes it easier than ordering from Japan or the US.
Custom vs off-the-shelf — which should you pick?
Buy prebuilt if:
- You’re new
- You want plug-and-play
- You don’t want to solder
Build custom if:
- You love DIY
- You want exact parts
- You care about aesthetics
- You want tournament-grade performance
Most players start prebuilt, then build custom later.
Best beginner parts setup (UK starter kit)
If you were building your first stick today, here’s a safe setup:
- Lever: Sanwa JLF/JLX
- Buttons: Sanwa OBSF-30 × 8
- Top: Ball top (switch later if needed)
- PCB: Brook Universal Fighting Board
- Case: Mayflash F500 or metal case
This works for almost every fighting game.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best arcade stick parts in the UK?
For most players: Sanwa JLF/JLX + Sanwa OBSF or Qanba Gravity KS buttons.
For Tekken: Korean levers (Crown 309/Knee Lever/Myoungshin Fanta) + Crown 202 buttons.
Can I mix Sanwa and Crown parts?
Yes — many players do. It’s mainly preference (feel and playstyle).
Are cheap arcade parts worth it?
Usually no — you’ll replace them quickly, and inconsistency can feel worse than stock parts.
Do I need soldering?
Not always. Many modern builds are plug-and-play, depending on your PCB and harness setup.
Want to go deeper?
If you’re brand new, check out:
- How to Choose the Right Fight Stick (Beginner’s Buying Guide)
- The Ultimate Guide to Building & Upgrading Your Arcade Fight Stick
These pair perfectly with this article.
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